Stalked by a Lion

We spent three days in the wilds of Serengetti NP and Ngorongoro Crater NR, in Tanzania. The wildlife was tremendous, from vast herds of wildebeast and zebra to close encounters with water buffalo. Prides of lions lounged in the sunshine on rocky outcroppings called "kopjes," elevated slightly above the grassy plain. We even had a rare opportunity to see a leopard atop a huge boulder at sunset. But it was in our bush campground in Serengetti where we had an experience that we'll never forget.

At 10 p.m. we left the dying embers of the campfire to turn in for the night. An intestinal bug had been making its way through S's digestive system, so we made a run through the darkness to the pit toilet. As we neared it, our headlamps reflected back at us in the form of two yellow eyes, staring at us from about 30 feet away. Since there were no fences to keep the animals out, our minds reeled with the possibilities; was this a jackal, a hyena, or a lion watching us? We decided to return to the fire to ask one of our safari guides if it was safe to continue to the toilet. He accompanied us with a bright flashlight and identified the eyes as belonging to a lion.

Shortly after returning to the tent, vowing to remain in its relative safety until daylight, a massive thunder and lightning storm released an angry downpour over the Serengetti. At midnight, we realized our goal was unattainable, as S's sickness worsened. We made a mad dash to the outhouse, slipping in the mud and blinded by the pouring rain. Our weak flashlights did little to penetrate the darkness; nevertheless, they reflected the same set of yellow eyes, watching and waiting. Being in such a vulnerable position was truly terrifying. We prayed for safety each of the three times we had to make the trek, and fortunately, the lion kept its distance.

We spent the next night camping at 7,300 feet on the rim of Ngorongoro Crater. Far below, within the crater, a vast grassy plain is home to zebra, wildebeest, and water buffalo, as well as the occasional elephant and black rhino. We fell asleep to the sounds of hyenas laughing in the darkness. Africa really is as wild as the stories make it sound!